1. Prep as with striping - take extra care that the surface is wax free. Check by feeling the surface, if it drags over the prepped area and slide over the area that is not prepped, you have successfully removed the wax and the surface is ready for installation of the moulding. Refer to ‘Removal of Wax and Grease’ p3.
2. Determine position for the moulding that gives the best protection and looks good. Lay a masking tape guideline for either the top or bottom edge of the moulding. Start straight and finish straight the same as when laying a stripe.
3. Stand back and make sure the works well with lines of the car. If you have no body line to follow, make sure the line is a little higher at the back.
4. Start from the front of the vehicle, mark the moulding with a chinagraph pencil for an accurate cut. The leading edge needs to be chamfered to allow to clear the next panel as the door opens. Open the door wide to see how much clearance there is between the backedge of the next panel and the position on the door where the moulding will be. If there is not sufficient clearance the moulding will have to be placed far enough back from the front edge of the door to allow the door to open fully with out contact between the next panel and the mould.
5. First cut along the marks thru the mould at 90 degrees.
6. To chamfer the leading edge, place the blade evenly across the top of the mould exactly where you want the chamfer to start. Bring the base of the cutters up to the back of the mould and cut downwards with a rolling movement that will bring the blade the bottom edge of the mould. This will take some practise, so try out on some off cut mouldings first, until you are confident you can do it.
7. Feed the moulding into position along the masking tape guideline, removing the plastic away from the double- sided tape, and maintaining a hairline gap so you can see the edge of the masking tape as you go. Keep the moulding level by supporting it with your other hand while you guide it into position.
8. Before you remove the plastic from the double-sided tape completely, mark a line to cut the back edge of the mould in line with the back edge of the door (or other panel). Avoid contact between your fingers and the double-sided tape.
9. Next, rub down the moulding firmly and vigorously with a rag. The rag will save your hand from getting a friction burn as you rub. The pressure and heat generated by rubbing down in this fashion warms and softens the mould, ensuring good contact between the double-sided tape and car. Without this step, moisture and dust will creep in and compromise the adhesion of the moulding to the car. Always check that all doors clear when opened out full.
1. The procedure to install ‘D’ mould is much the same. It is usually not necessary to lay a masking tape guideline. After prepping the surface, trim the start of mould to an angle that matches the panel, remove the first few centimetres of plastic from the double-sided tape, and feed the moulding along the edge of the wheel arch.
2. Keep your eye level with the edge as you position the mould to ensure an even gap around. Watch out for flat spots and unevenness as you go.
3. Feed the mould ‘into’ a bend, any hint of stretch around a bend will result in adhesion failure if shrinkage occurs.
4. Rub down firmly as with body side mouldings, to ensure good contact between the mould and the car.
VE Commodore protected and enhanced with BM10 and D8 to sides and front and rear bumpers. Also D12 to wheel arches and D8 on the mirrors